Like that Rosetta stone, the egg, far more ancient, unlocks the secret code of the kitchen. Learn the language of the egg -- understand completely this amazing and beautiful oblong orb -- and you can enter new realms of cooking.

不久前，我与作家和电视名人奥尔顿・布朗(Alton Brown)通了电话，他问我在忙些什么。“我想写些与鸡蛋相关的东西，”我回答道，“鸡蛋的所有做法，以及如果你对鸡蛋的烹饪做到了如指掌，你如何就会成为一名在各方面都更出色的烹饪高手。”他说：“不错，我一直都喜欢说鸡蛋是厨房中的罗赛塔石碑。”

The greatest of all our foods, the egg combines beauty, elegance and simplicity, a miracle of natural design and bounty. Containing all of the nutrients required to create life, eggs give our bodies a powerful combination of proteins, amino acids, fatty acids, antioxidants, minerals and vitamins, a package unmatched by any other single food.

如罗赛塔石碑破解了埃及象形文一样，历史更为久远的鸡蛋解开了厨房的密码。学习鸡蛋的表达方式――彻底了解这种令人惊叹而又美观的椭圆形球体――你就能迈入烹饪的新境界。

An egg is an end in itself; it's a multipurpose ingredient; it's an all-purpose garnish; it's an invaluable tool. The egg teaches your hands finesse and delicacy. It helps your arms develop strength and stamina. It instructs in the way proteins behave in heat and in the powerful ways we can change food mechanically. It's a lever for getting food to behave in great ways. Learn to take the egg to its many differing ends, and you've enlarged your culinary repertoire by a factor of 10.

作为人类食物中的极品，鸡蛋集美观、精致和简单于一身，是大自然造物与馈赠的奇迹。它含有创造生命所需的所有营养物质，为我们的身体提供蛋白质、氨基酸、脂肪酸、抗氧化物、矿物质和维生素等高效营养组合，这一综合特性是其他任何一种食物都无法匹敌的。

Within the universe of the egg are dozens of techniques. I'd wager that no other single ingredient has as many, not by a long shot. But shouldn't we expect as much from a little package that contains all the stuff of life itself?

鸡蛋本身就是一种成品，它是一种多用途的食材、一种通用的点缀，还是一种宝贵的用具。它让你的双手体会到细腻与精致；有助于你的双臂锻炼力量与耐力；它还能教授蛋白质在高温情况下的反应方式以及我们能通过手工操作改变食品的有效方式。它是一个让食物以极好方式呈现出来的手段。学会了将鸡蛋多种多样的潜能发挥出来，你也就将你的烹饪技艺提高了10倍。

FOUR WAYS TO MASTER THE SHELL GAME

鸡蛋的烹饪体系包括好几十种方法。我敢打赌没有一种食材能有这么多的烹饪方法，而且还差得很远。我们难道不应当对一个包括生命本身所有物质的小综合体有这么多期待吗？

1. Foundation of Egg Cookery: The Omelet

掌握鸡蛋烹饪术的四种方法：

Many chefs ask a young cook to put aside the resume and make an omelet. That's all that's needed as a tryout, because cooking an omelet well requires skill, knowledge, experience and finesse. Follow the steps below, and you will be well on your way. I highly recommend that home cooks use a good, lovingly cared-for nonstick pan.

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How to Do It

1. 鸡蛋烹制基础：煎蛋卷

1. When the pan is hot and the butter is melted, your pan is ready for the blended eggs.

许多主厨会要求年轻的厨师扔下求职简历，直接做一道煎蛋卷。用它来考核厨师就足够了，因为把煎蛋卷做好需要技巧、知识、经验和精细度。遵循以下列出的步骤，你会取得很大的进展。我强烈建议家庭烹饪者使用一个优质且得到精心护理的不粘平底锅。

2. Swirling both the pan and the spatula, mix the eggs in the pan to create a very fine curd on the bottom while heating the eggs throughout.

烹制方法

3. Stop stirring and allow the eggs to set. When the omelet has a very thin film of loose egg on top, it's ready to be plated.

(1) 待平底锅烧热、黄油融化时，便可把打好的蛋液倒入锅内了。

4. Roll and slide the omelet onto a plate. Remember that you will be able to shape it after it's out of the pan. Notice the pale uniform color of the omelet, with no browning.

(2) 转动平底锅和煎铲，在使蛋液全部受热的同时，将锅中的蛋液拌匀，使蛋皮底部形成非常细嫩的凝乳状物。

5. Shape the omelet as you wish (fold, roll, etc.) and finish with a pat of butter.

(3) 停止搅动，让鸡蛋凝固。当煎蛋卷的表面出现一层非常薄而松散的蛋皮时，就可以准备装盘了。

Omelet With Creamy Morel Mushrooms

(4) 将煎蛋卷卷起放在盘子上。记住你要能在它出锅后就给它定形。注意煎蛋卷的色泽应是均匀的淡色，不是棕褐色。

For this recipe, it makes the cook's work easier if the filling is very hot, so that it will contribute to the cooking of the center of the omelet when added. If you can harvest your own morels or have a local source for good fresh ones, lucky you! Several online sources sell them, including Earthy Delights (earthy.com). Dried morels should be reconstituted according to the instructions on the package, then halved and used as instructed here.

(5) 把煎蛋卷制成你想要的任何形状（折叠或卷起等等），最后再抹上少许黄油。

TOTAL TIME: 20 minutes

奶油羊肚菌煎蛋卷

SERVES: 2

对于这道菜，如果馅料非常烫的话，烹饪者会更轻松些，热馅料添入时有助于加热到蛋卷的中心。如果你能采摘自己种的羊肚菌或者当地有新鲜的优质羊肚菌出售，那你就太幸运了！网上也有些店铺出售，Earthy Delights就是其中之一（earthy.com）。按照包装上的说明，应先把干羊肚菌用水泡发，再把它切成两半，然后按照说明添加。

2 tablespoons butter, plus pat of butter for serving (optional)

总耗时：20分钟

1 tablespoon minced shallots

份量：两人份

Salt

两汤匙黄油，另备少量黄油在端上桌时用（可选）

16 fresh morels, halved, or 1/2 ounce dried morels, reconstituted in water and halved

一汤匙切碎的红葱

1/2 cup heavy cream

盐

Freshly ground black pepper

16朵新鲜的羊肚菌，切成两半，或者1/2盎司干羊肚菌，在水中泡发然后切成两半

4 eggs, thoroughly blended

1/2杯多脂奶油

1 teaspoon minced fresh chives (optional)

新磨制的黑胡椒粉

1. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a small saute pan over medium heat. Add shallots and a pinch of salt and cook until shallots are tender. Add morels, stir to coat with butter, then add cream and pepper to taste. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to medium-low and cook until cream has thickened and morels are coated. (Be careful not to overcook cream, or it will break.) Remove pan from heat and keep warm.

四个鸡蛋，把它们充分打匀

2. In a medium saute pan over medium heat, melt 1 tablespoon butter. Swirling both pan and spatula, stir eggs in pan to create a very fine curd on the bottom while heating eggs throughout. Stop stirring and allow eggs to set. When omelet is set and there is a thin film of liquidy egg on top, scatter mushrooms down center of omelet. (Reserve some of the mushrooms for spooning over omelet, if desired.)

一汤匙切碎的新鲜细香葱（可选）

3. Roll omelet out of pan onto a warm plate, folding top half onto bottom half. Top with butter, if using. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon mushrooms over omelet and garnish with chives, if using. Cut omelet in half crosswise and transfer one half to another warm plate.

(1) 将一个小号深煎锅置于中火上，放入一汤匙黄油融化。加入红葱和少许盐烹制，直到红葱变软为止。加入羊肚菌，加以搅拌使它们裹上黄油，然后加入奶油和黑胡椒提味。将它们加热至接近沸腾状态，然后调到中低火，接着煮至奶油变浓稠、羊肚菌裹上奶油为止。（小心不要将奶油煮得过久，否则它会分解。）将煎锅从火上端走，使它保持温热。

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(2) 将一个中号深煎锅置于中火上，融化一汤匙黄油。转动平底锅和煎铲，在使蛋液全部受热的同时，将锅中的蛋液拌匀，使蛋皮底部形成非常细嫩的凝乳状物。停止转动，让鸡蛋凝固。当蛋卷凝固，表面出现一层非常薄的蛋液时，将蘑菇撒在蛋卷的中心上。（如果喜欢的话，可留一些蘑菇放在煎蛋卷上用勺子舀着吃。）

2. Perfectly Soft-Cooked

(3) 将煎蛋卷卷起放在温热的盘子上，将上面一半卷在底部一半上。如果想要的话，在煎蛋卷上抹上黄油。加点盐和胡椒提味。如果想要这么做的话，用勺子把蘑菇舀在蛋卷上，再点缀上细香葱。将煎蛋卷横向切成两半，把其中一半另外放到一个温热的盘子上。

It's good to have a handle on the range of egg donenesses available to you, from soft-cooked, in which the yolk is completely runny and the white just barely set; to what is called mollet, meaning that the white and part of the yolk are solid but the center of the yolk remains fluid; to just before fully hard-cooked, when the yolk is soft and creamy throughout but still slightly darker in the center than at the edge.

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How to Do It

2. 熟度恰到好处的煮鸡蛋

Put cold eggs in a pan in one layer, cover them with water by about 1 inch, and put the pan over high heat. When the water reaches a full boil (at least 209 degrees), cover the pan and remove it from the heat. Remove the eggs from the water after 1 1/2 minutes if you want the whites to be loose, a true soft-cooked egg. For a soft-cooked egg in which the white is set but the yolk is molten, remove the egg after 3 minutes. Any time between 1 1/2 and 3 minutes will yield a good soft-cooked egg. Cut the top off the eggshell and serve immediately.

能够掌控自己可选的鸡蛋熟度是个不错的体验。从蛋黄还完全呈液体状、蛋白刚刚凝固的嫩心蛋，到蛋白和一部分蛋黄已凝固但蛋黄中心依然是液状的中熟蛋，再到离全熟蛋还差一些火候，整个蛋黄依然软嫩柔滑但中心的色泽仍然略深于边缘色泽的熟度，你都可以选择。

Eggs on Artichoke Hearts With Creamy Lemon-Shallot Vinaigrette

煮制方法

This dish pairs a classic thick lemon vinaigrette with artichoke, egg and, for crunch and color, panko breadcrumbs fried in butter.

将凉鸡蛋分一层放入锅中，加入比鸡蛋高出约一英寸的水量，然后把锅置于高火上。当水完全沸腾时（至少209华氏度（约98.3摄氏度）），盖上锅并把它从火上端开。如果你想要蛋白还比较稀的真正的嫩心蛋，那就在一分半钟后将鸡蛋从水中拿出来。如果你想要蛋白凝固但蛋黄还是液状的熟度，那就在三分钟后拿出鸡蛋。在一分半钟到三分钟之间的任意时段拿出来的鸡蛋都会是不错的嫩心蛋。将蛋壳顶部切去，迅速把它端上桌。

TOTAL TIME: 1 hour

洋蓟心浇细滑柠檬-红葱油醋汁配煮蛋

SERVES: 4

这道菜将经典的浓稠柠檬油醋汁浇洋蓟心和煮鸡蛋，以及为了带来咀嚼感和色泽而添加的黄油煎过的面包屑搭配在一起。

4 whole artichokes, top halves and stems removed

总耗时：一小时

1 large onion, thinly sliced

份量：四人份

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

四整棵洋蓟，切成两半，去茎

1 cup lemon-shallot mayonnaise

一颗大洋葱，切成薄片

4 eggs, cold

两汤匙新鲜柠檬汁

Pinch of cayenne pepper

一杯柠檬-红葱蛋黄酱

1/4 cup minced fresh chives

四个凉鸡蛋

1/4 cup panko, browned in 2 tablespoons butter (optional)

少量红辣椒粉

Salt

四分之一杯切碎的新鲜细香葱

1. Cook artichokes: In a lidded pot, arrange artichokes in a single layer and scatter onions on top. Add enough water so it comes halfway up artichokes. Bring water to a simmer over high heat, then reduce heat to medium-low, cover pot and simmer until artichokes are tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Transfer artichokes to a plate to cool. Once cool, remove and discard leaves and choke. Reserve hearts and keep warm. (Cooked hearts can be made up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated.)

四分之一杯面包屑，以两汤匙黄油煎成棕色（可选）

2. Make lemon-shallot vinaigrette: Stir 1 tablespoon lemon juice into lemon-shallot mayonnaise until consistency is like a vinaigrette. Add an additional tablespoon lemon juice if needed. Set aside.

盐

3. Soft-cook eggs: In a lidded pan, arrange eggs in a single layer and cover with water by about 1 inch. Place pan over high heat. Bring water to a full boil, cover pan and remove from heat. For true soft-cooked eggs with loose whites, remove eggs from water after 1 1/2 minutes. For soft-cooked eggs in which whites are set but yolks are molten, remove eggs after 3 minutes. Any time between 1 1/2 and 3 minutes will yield a good soft-cooked egg. (Eggs can be chilled in an ice bath for 10 minutes, then stored in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.)

(1) 烹制洋蓟心：将洋蓟心放在一个带盖的锅中摆成一层，然后在表面撒上洋葱片。加入足够的水，水位到洋蓟心一半的位置。以高火将水加热至接近沸腾状态，然后调低到中低火，把锅盖上，将洋蓟心炖到变软为止，这大概要45分钟到一小时。将洋蓟心放到盘子上冷却。待它们冷却后，去掉枝叶并丢弃。保留洋蓟心并使它们保持温热。（做好的洋蓟心可提前两天准备放入冰箱冷藏。）

4. Meanwhile, spoon 1 tablespoon vinaigrette onto center of each plate and top with an artichoke heart. Spoon 2 tablespoons vinaigrette into cup of the heart. Carefully peel eggs and place one on each artichoke heart. (If you've made eggs ahead of time, first warm them in gently simmering water for 60-90 seconds.) Garnish with cayenne, chives and panko, if using. Season with salt to taste.

(2) 制作柠檬-红葱油醋汁： 将一汤匙柠檬汁倒入柠檬-红葱蛋黄酱搅拌，直到它的稠度像油醋汁一样为止。如果有必要，再加入一汤匙柠檬汁。把它放在一旁备用。

Lemon-Shallot Mayonnaise

(3) 嫩心蛋：将鸡蛋放入一个带盖的锅中分一层摆好，加入比鸡蛋高出约一英寸的水，然后把锅置于高火上。把水加热到完全沸腾，盖上锅并把它从火上挪开。若想要蛋白还比较稀的真正的嫩心蛋，在一分半钟后将鸡蛋从水中拿出来。如果想要蛋白凝固但蛋黄还是液状的嫩心蛋，在三分钟后拿出鸡蛋。在一分半钟到三分钟之间的任意时段拿出来的鸡蛋都会是不错的嫩心蛋。（可把鸡蛋放在冰块中冷冻10分钟，然后把它们放在盖紧的容器中放入冰箱可储存两天时间。）

This is my go-to mayonnaise for just about anything that mayonnaise goes well with. It can sit for a day in the fridge, but the shallots give it an off flavor after too many unappreciated hours.

(4) 与此同时，舀一汤匙油醋汁倒在每个盘子的中心，再在上面摆放一棵洋蓟心。舀两汤匙油醋汁倒入洋蓟心中。仔细地将鸡蛋薄皮，然后在每棵洋蓟心上放一个鸡蛋。（如果你提前做好了鸡蛋，先把它们放在微微沸腾的热水中加热60至90秒。）如果要这么做的话，再以红辣椒粉、细香葱和面包屑做点缀。加少许盐调味。

TOTAL TIME: 5 minutes

柠檬-红葱蛋黄酱

MAKES: about 1 cup

它是我的首选蛋黄酱，不管与什么东西搭配几乎都很合适。它可以放在冰箱中保存一天时间，但是如果搁置的时间太长，红葱会使它散发出一种异味。

1 tablespoon minced shallot

总耗时：五分钟

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, plus 2 teaspoons

份量：一杯左右

1/2 teaspoon salt

一汤匙切碎的红葱

1 teaspoon water

一汤匙新鲜柠檬汁，另外再准备两汤匙

1 egg yolk

1/2盐

Pinch of cayenne pepper

一汤匙水

3/4 cup vegetable oil

一个蛋黄

1. In a small bowl, combine shallots with 1 tablespoon lemon juice. Set aside.

少许红辣椒粉

2. Make mayonnaise: In a medium bowl, whisk together remaining lemon juice, salt, water, yolk and cayenne until salt is dissolved. Whisking continuously, add one, two, then three drops oil to establish the emulsion, then add remaining oil in a thin, steady stream until oil has been incorporated and mayonnaise is thick and sumptuous. Stir in shallot-lemon juice mixture.

3/4杯植物油

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(1) 将红葱与一汤匙柠檬汁放在一个小碗中混在一起。搁在一旁备用。

3. The Satiny Custard

(2) 制作蛋黄酱：将剩余的柠檬汁、盐、水、蛋黄和红辣椒粉放在一个中等大小的碗中，迅速搅拌直到盐溶化为止。持续搅拌，渐次滴入一滴、两滴油，再滴入三滴油使搅拌物形成乳状液，然后将剩余的油以细而稳定的一股倒入搅拌物，直到油与搅拌物融为一体，蛋黄酱变得浓稠丰厚为止。搅拌红葱-柠檬汁混合物。

Custards can be sweet or savory, thick or thin, served alone or supported by a crust. They can be made with yolks alone, as in creme brulee, or with whites only, as in panna cotta. Custards are also a tool, a binder that can add satisfying fat and flavor.

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Chawanmushi

3. 丝滑蛋奶冻

This Japanese dish -- chicken, shrimp and mushrooms bound in a light custard -- makes a lovely first course or light meal. The custard uses just enough egg to set the top, but it is so fragile that it breaks as you eat it, and the clarified liquid is almost like a consomme.

蛋奶冻可以做成甜味或咸味，也可做成浓稠或稀的，亦可单独食用或配上酥皮面饼食用。它们可只用蛋黄制作，比如奶油焦糖布丁，也可只用蛋白制作，如意式奶冻。蛋奶冻也是一种工具，一道可增添令人满足的脂肪与美味的结合物。

ACTIVE TIME: 30 MINUTES

日式蒸蛋

TOTAL TIME: 1 3/4 hours

在这道日本美食中，鸡肉、虾肉和蘑菇裹在清淡的蛋羹中，是一道让人喜爱的头盘或简便的轻食。蛋羹使用了足够多的鸡蛋，顶部刚好能够凝固，但是它又非常的细嫩，在你品尝之时便会裂开，清澈的蛋液几乎就像清汤一样。

SERVES: 4

实际操作时间：30分钟

1 quart water

总耗时：一小时45分钟

4 small sheets or 1 large sheet kombu

份量：四人份

1 ounce bonito flakes (about 1 cup)

一夸脱水 四小片干海苔或一大片海苔

2 ounces chicken thigh or breast meat, cut into 1/2-inch dice

一盎司鲣鱼片（约合一杯）

1 teaspoon sake

两盎司鸡腿肉或鸡胸肉，切成1/2英寸见方的小丁

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon soy sauce

一汤匙清酒

4 small or 2 large shrimp, peeled and deveined, halved lengthwise if large

一汤匙酱油，另外再准备一汤匙

A few bite-size pieces enoki, maitake or shiitake mushrooms per serving

四只小虾或两只大虾，剥壳并去掉肠线，如果个头太大可纵向切成两半

2 eggs

为每份准备若干一口大小的 蘑、舞茸或香菇

2 teaspoons mirin rice wine

两个鸡蛋

1/2 teaspoon salt

两汤匙甜米酒

1/2 scallion, thinly sliced diagonally, or 4 small watercress sprigs, for garnish

1/2汤匙盐

Grated lemon zest, for garnish (optional)

1/2汤匙斜切成薄片的香葱，或者四枝豆瓣菜嫩枝用于装饰

1. Make dashi: In a medium pot over high heat, bring water and kombu to 140 degrees, using a thermometer to monitor temperature. Reduce heat to maintain this temperature and cook for 1 hour. Remove kombu and increase temperature to 175 degrees. Add bonito flakes, steep about 20 seconds, then strain dashi through a coffee filter set in a mesh strainer over a bowl. Set aside.

碎柠檬皮用于装饰（可选）

2. In a small bowl, combine diced chicken with sake and 1 teaspoon soy sauce, and marinate 15 minutes. Drain.

(1) 烹制鲣鱼汤：在一个中号锅置于高火上，加入水和干海苔烧至华氏140度（约60摄氏度），要使用温度计来监测温度。然后调低火量，保持这个温度煮一小时。取出海苔，将温度升至175度（约79摄氏度）。加入鲣鱼片，浸泡约20秒，然后在碗上放置一个滤网，网上铺一张咖啡滤纸用来过滤鲣鱼汤。把汤放置一旁备用。

3. Divide chicken, shrimp and mushrooms among four 5-ounce ramekins.

(2) 取一个小碗，加入鸡肉丁、清酒和一汤匙酱油加以混合，腌制15分钟。排出液体。

4. In a medium bowl, beat eggs until smooth. Add 1 1/2 cups dashi, remaining soy sauce, mirin and salt and stir to combine. Divide mixture among ramekins and cover with foil.

(3) 将鸡肉、虾肉和蘑菇分放在四个五盎司容量的蒸盅中。

5. Place a rack or steamer basket in a lidded pot large enough to hold all four ramekins. Pour in enough water to just reach rack. Bring water to a vigorous boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-high, carefully add ramekins to pot, cover pot and steam until custard is set but still jiggly, and chicken and shrimp are cooked through, 15-17 minutes. Carefully remove foil from ramekins, garnish each ramekin with scallions, cover pot again and steam until scallions are just wilted, about 1 more minute. Carefully remove ramekins from pot and garnish with lemon zest, if using.

(4) 将鸡蛋放在一个中等大小的碗中打到细滑为止。加入一杯半鲣鱼汤、剩余的酱油、甜米酒和盐，然后加以搅拌混匀。将搅拌物平均倒入四个蒸盅中，然后盖上锡纸。

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(5) 取一个足以放下四个蒸盅的带盖锅，在国内放入一个蒸架或一个蒸笼。倒入足够的水，水位要刚刚接近蒸架。用高火将水煮至滚沸，将火调低至中高火，小心地将烤盘放入锅中，盖上锅盖，蒸到蛋羹凝固但仍有颤滑感、鸡肉和虾肉完全蒸熟为止，时长约为15至17分钟。小心地揭开蒸盅上的锡纸，在每个蒸盅上点缀上香葱，然后再盖上锅盖蒸，直到香葱刚刚变软为止，约要一分钟时间。小心地将蒸盅从锅中端出，如果想要的话，在上面撒些碎柠檬片做点缀。

4. The Mighty White

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The body that the egg white's protein adds to a cocktail gives the libation's flavors some hang time in the mouth.

4. 能量无穷的蛋白

Clover Club Cocktail

在鸡尾酒中加入蛋白，它含有的蛋白质带来的质感会使酒的风味在口中留存更长时间。

SERVES: 4

“三叶草俱乐部鸡尾酒”

Freeze four martini or coupe glasses. // Meanwhile, make simple syrup: In a saucepan, simmer 1/4 cup water with 1/4 cup sugar until sugar dissolves. // Combine 6 ounces gin, 2 ounces fresh lemon juice, 2 ounces simple syrup, 1 ounce grenadine or pomegranate syrup and 2 egg whites in a blender. Blend until frothy. Fill blender jar with ice and stir 1-2 minutes, then pour through a fine-mesh strainer into the icy glasses.

份量：四人份

Mr. Ruhlman's books on cooking include 'The Elements of Cooking: Translating the Chef's Craft for Every Kitchen,' 'Ratio: The Simple Codes Behind the Craft of Everyday Cooking' and 'Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing.' This article was adapted from his new book 'Egg: A Culinary Exploration of the World's Most Versatile Ingredient,' published this month by Little, Brown and Company.

冷却四个马提尼杯或冰激凌杯。//与此同时，熬制单糖浆：在一个炖锅中放入四分之一杯水和四分之一杯糖，熬到糖溶化为止。//将六盎司杜松子酒、两盎司新鲜柠檬汁、两盎司单糖浆、一盎司石榴汁或红石榴糖浆以及两个蛋白放入搅拌杯中，搅到起泡为止。在搅拌杯中加满冰块搅拌一至两分钟，然后用一张细滤网将酒倒入冰冷的杯中。