近日，体育品牌阿迪达斯因一款新鞋设计陷入“文化挪用”风波，遭到墨西哥政府及民众强烈抗议，相关话题也登上微博热搜。



争议的焦点是一款由阿迪达斯与设计师查瓦里亚合作推出的凉鞋 “Oaxaca Slip-On”。

据外媒报道，该鞋的黑色编织鞋面与墨西哥瓦哈卡州萨波特克工匠制作的传统凉鞋 “huarache” 十分相似，只是该鞋的鞋底并非平底，而是厚橡胶鞋底。

Mexican authorities are accusing sportswear company Adidas of plagiarizing artisans in southern Mexico. The design at the center of the controversy is the "Oaxaca Slip-On", a sandal created by US designer Willy Chavarria for Adidas Originals.

The sandals feature thin leather straps braided in a style that is unmistakably similar to the traditional Mexican huaraches. Instead of flat leather soles, the Adidas shoes tout a more chunky, sports shoe sole.



墨西哥瓦哈卡，市场上展示待售的“huaraches”凉鞋。 图源：美联社

墨西哥总统公开谴责阿迪达斯

墨西哥总统克劳迪娅·辛鲍姆在8日的新闻发布会上，展示了阿迪达斯上述新鞋的图片，并表示阿迪达斯等公司正在“窃取原住民社区的创造力”。

她表示，瓦哈卡州政府已开始与阿迪达斯进行谈判，要求该公司向原住民社区进行赔偿，并表示墨西哥方面已准备就此采取法律措施。

President Claudia Sheinbaum of Mexico displayed an image of a pair of Adidas Oaxaca Slip-Ons at a news conference on Friday and said that Adidas and other companies were "usurping the creativity" of indigenous communities.

She said that the government of Oaxaca had begun talks with Adidas aimed at reimbursing indigenous communities for the use of their "collective intellectual property" and that Mexico was prepared to take legal action.



墨西哥总统辛鲍姆（左）和该国文化部官员玛丽娜在新闻发布会上谴责阿迪达斯推出的新鞋“Oaxaca Slip-On”。 图源：美媒

据美联社报道，墨西哥当局指出，阿迪达斯的设计含有瓦哈卡州土著社区文化遗产的元素，而手工艺品是墨西哥重要的经济命脉，为全国约 50 万人提供了就业机会。

According to Mexican authorities, Adidas' design contains elements that are part of the cultural heritage of the Zapotec indigenous communities in Oaxaca. Handicrafts are a crucial economic lifeline in Mexico, providing jobs for around half a million people across the country.

品牌方和设计师紧急道歉

面对墨西哥方面的指控，阿迪达斯及该款鞋的设计师查瓦里亚目前已就此事公开道歉。

据英国广播电台报道，阿迪达斯在致歉声明中称，“Oaxaca Slip-On”鞋款的设计灵感源自（墨西哥）瓦哈卡州的一种传统设计，并对此道歉。阿迪达斯重申将致力于与墨西哥当地社区合作，以尊重他们文化遗产的方式进行对话。

阿迪达斯还表示会与当地讨论如何 “弥补对原住民社区造成的伤害”。

"The 'Oaxaca Slip-On' was inspired by a design from Oaxaca, rooted in the tradition of Villa Hidalgo Yalálag." Adidas said in an emailed statement. "We offer a public apology and reaffirm our commitment to collaborate with Yalálag in a respectful dialogue that honors their cultural legacy."

The company requested to sit down with local officials and to discuss how it can "repair the damage" to indigenous populations.

这款新鞋的设计师查瓦里亚随后也用英语和西班牙语，向“瓦哈卡人民”发表道歉信。据纽约时报报道，查瓦里亚的父亲是墨西哥裔美国人，母亲是爱尔兰裔美国人。

信中，他表示，他的初衷是向瓦哈卡州及其社区的文化和艺术致敬。他对于这双鞋的设计未经授权挪用瓦哈卡文化元素，且未与当地原住民社群建立深度协作深表歉意。

Chavarria issued an apology on Aug 10, written in English and Spanish and addressed to "the people of Oaxaca".

"The intention was always to honor the powerful cultural and artistic spirit of Oaxaca and its creative communities — a place whose beauty and resistance have inspired me," Chavarria said.

"I am deeply sorry that the shoe was appropriated in this design and not developed in direct and meaningful partnership with the Oaxacan community," he added.



目前，该款鞋的宣传物料已从阿迪达斯社交媒体及查瓦里亚个人账号撤下。

Promotional images of the black moulded open-toe footwear have been taken down from the brand's social media accounts as well as Chavarria's.

据纽约时报，墨西哥政府一直以来积极捍卫传统设计，防止外来者对其进行“不当利用”。美国有线电视新闻网介绍说，该国曾通过法案，对未经授权使用原住民文化表现形式的行为处以高额罚款和监禁。此前，包括Zara、Anthropologie和Patowl在内的公司也因设计或图案被认为与墨西哥传统文化过于相似而面临类似反对，该法案也因此通过。

来源：21世纪英文报 环球时报 美联社 纽约时报 美国有线电视新闻网 英国广播公司 红星新闻