In the heart of Xiong'an New Area, Hebei province, lies a food tradition that defines the region: Baiyangdian Lake's fish feast. Here, where the sky meets the water and reeds line the shores, almost every family knows how to cook fish. Freshness is a way of life.Tucked deep inside the lake, Juantou village is the place to taste this authentic flavor. Surrounded by water and endless reeds, generations of fishermen have lived off the lake, harvesting fish, shrimp and lotus roots to create a feast with a century-old tradition.



A boat ride offers an excellent way to take in the charm of Baiyangdian Lake in Xiong'an, Hebei province. Photo provided to China Daily

No expensive ingredients or fancy seasonings — just the pure, vibrant freshness of Baiyangdian: fish caught and stewed the same day, freshly picked lotus leaves, and duck eggs cured on-site.

Shang Shichao, 36, is a chef who grew up in Baiyangdian. He has been cooking since 2007, learning from his family. His grandfather's generation had no kitchen — just a stove on the bow of a boat.

When fishing took them far from home, they would set up a simple fire, scrape the scales off the freshly caught fish, rinse it in lake water, and stew it with only oil, salt, ginger, and green onion. The aroma would drift into the reeds. No complex sauces or delicate plating — the fish, fresh from the water, offered the finest flavor of all.

"The soul of the fish feast is not the cooking skill, but the unadulterated freshness of Baiyangdian," Shang says.



A local chef prepares a fish dish in Xiong'an. PHOTO/CHINA NEWS SERVICE

The feast begins at the village's fish market at 6 am. Fishermen set their nets the night before and haul them in at dawn. Carp, mixed fish and river shrimp arrive still jumping, glistening with lake water.

A 2-kilogram wild carp is common; some grow to over 30 kg. Shang once stewed a 32-kg giant, slowly simmering it over firewood, with cornmeal cakes baked around the rim. The aroma was unforgettable.

Thanks to the clean lake water, the fish here are naturally tender. Small fish have soft bones — you can eat them whole. Large fish are firm but never dry or smell fishy.

The local rule? Clear stew is the way: just green onion, ginger, salt, and vinegar. Bring to a boil, then let it simmer slowly. The broth turns rich, and the fish remains tender. One bite reveals the lake's natural sweetness.

The classic local way to eat the meal: take a bite of fish, then a bite of cornmeal cake dipped in the fish broth, and finish with a bite of raw scallion. The layers of texture and flavor are distinct, Shang says.

Mixed small fish are a home-style favorite. Fried to a golden brown, then braised in vinegar until savory, the dish is perfect with drinks or rice.

Transforming fish scales into a jelly-like delicacy is another unique creation from Baiyangdian. First, wash the carp scales and boil them, then let them set overnight into a crystal-clear jelly. Cut the jelly into cubes and drizzle with vinegar, garlic, and sesame oil. The result is a refreshing, bouncy treat that melts in your mouth, turning the most overlooked part of the fish into a delightful appetizer.

Fish is the star, but the supporting cast all comes from the lake.

Tiny shrimp are mixed with cornmeal and green onions, then pan-fried into small cakes. The cakes are crispy on the outside, sweet on the inside and easy to carry. Once a fisherman's travel food on the boat, they are now a must-have on the table.

Lotus and lotus root bring seasonal lightness. In early summer, tender lotus leaf tips are stir-fried with eggs or served cold — sweet and clean, with no bitterness. Fresh lotus root is crunchy, perfect for stir-frying or pan-frying.

Even lotus leaves are roasted to make tea, which is cool and refreshing. Reed roots add a subtle fragrance, harvested and served in season.



Signature dishes include salted duck eggs and stewed fish. PHOTO BY DENG ZHANGYU/CHINA DAILY

Then there are the salted duck eggs with red, oily yolks. The ducks swim freely in the lake, eating water plants, shellfish, and small fish. Their eggs are rich and deeply flavorful. Pairing one with a bowl of cornmeal congee is simple, satisfying and the truest taste of a water town morning.

Once, fishermen didn't go home to eat. They would build a fire on the boat's bow, cooking their catch on the spot. A pinch of salt and a few drops of vinegar created the ultimate flavor.

Today, life is better. Roads have been built, and the boats are faster, but the rules of the fish feast haven't changed: the fish must be wild from the lake, the shrimp must come straight from the cage, and the greens must be picked by the water's edge. Without Baiyangdian's water, no amount of skill can re-create that freshness.

Shang says Baiyangdian's food has no secrets but only heart. Guarding this clear lake, catching its fish and shrimp, and bringing the freshest ingredients to the table with the simplest methods — that's how they honor this water.





Signature dishes include salted duck eggs and stewed fish. PHOTO BY DENG ZHANGYU/CHINA DAILY

This is Baiyangdian's fish feast. Every fish, every shrimp, every lotus leaf and root carries the lake's cool clarity. It's not a lavish banquet, but it is nature's most generous gift.

Only by sitting next to the water, eating what has been taken from the lake, can you truly understand the taste of Baiyangdian.

If you go

It takes about an hour by high-speed train from Beijing to Baiyangdian, or a 30-minute drive from Xiong'an city center to the lake. Summer and autumn are the best seasons to visit. Restaurants across Xiong'an and villages around Baiyangdian Lake serve the signature fish feast. Priced at around 400 yuan ($58.5) per set, it typically serves up to 10 people.

Reporter: Deng Zhangyu

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