Five years ago the first high-definition cameras sent celebrities running for (pore) cover. Now the camera of choice is Red, which shoots film at even higher definition: to be specific, at 4,000-line resolution as opposed to the 2,000 currently used by the film industry.

五年前，首款高清相机让名人们争相抢登各大杂志的封面（连自己毛孔都清晰可见），如今首选款当属Red相机，由它拍摄的胶片清晰度更高：准确地说，就是其分辨率达到了4000×4000，而目前电影界使用的相机分辨率是2000×2000。

“It gives four times the sharpness of an HD camera,” says Alan Piper, operations director for Red Europe. So far, Red has been used for feature films including The Hobbit and the Lord of the Rings trilogy, as well as by online fashion magazines such as Japan’s The Reality Show and the UK’s Never Underdressed. Its high-resolution images allow high-quality prints to be pulled from a split second of film. The implications for make-up seem enormous.

“它的清晰度是一般高清相机的4倍，”Red欧洲分部营运总监艾伦·派珀(Alan Piper)说。到目前为止，Red不仅在《霍比特人》(The Hobbit)、《指环王》(Lord of the Rings)三部曲等影片的拍摄中、还在日本《真人秀》(The Reality Show )以及英国《Never Underdressed》等网络版时尚杂志中大显身手。可以从其拍摄的一小段影像资料中把高清晰图像随意摘取并打印，它对于美容的意义似乎也不同凡响。

Yet, according to Joanna McGarry, beauty director at Never Underdressed, Red’s impact will be more evolutionary than the wholesale change that came with HD, which spawned an entirely new type of cosmetics. “I think brands will pick up on this as a trend, but Red Cam hasn’t crossed over into the consumer market like HD did,” she says.

然而，《 Never Underdressed》网络版杂志的美容总监乔安娜·麦加里(Joanna McGarry)说，相比高清相机问世后引发的重大变化，Red相机的影响更具革命性，它催生了全新品类的美容品。“我觉得各大品牌均把它视作流行时尚，但Red相机目前还未像高清相机那样在消费市场登堂入室，”她说。

Make-up artist Dick Page, who worked with a Red camera on a recent shoot for The Reality Show, says; “[Red] didn’t really affect the way I do make-up, because for the most part I am fanatical about doing make-up in natural light, not studio lights – everything has to look as good as possible to the naked eye.” Page uses Graftobian, a theatrical make-up designed for HD, which “allows for the fact that skin is not one uniform colour. I’ll blend different shades together, or allow that tone is different when closer to the hairline.” His tools of choice are small eyeshadow brushes, and he talks in painterly terms about “stippling just areas, not the whole face”.

化妆师迪克·佩奇(Dick Page)最近用Red相机为《真人秀》网络杂志拍摄了照片，他说，“Red相机并未真正影响我处理化妆的方式，因为多数情况下，我青睐于使用自然光，而非工作室灯光——一切必须尽可能让肉眼感觉自然舒服。”佩奇使用了高清影视化妆专用品Graftobian，它“考虑到脸部肤色的千差万别，把不同的明暗度揉合运用；或是在靠近发际线时，采用不同的色调。”他选用的工具是小眼影刷，谈及“对局部区域、而非整个脸部进行点画”时，他使用的是画家术语。

Still, McGarry says, there has been a trickle-down effect and cosmetic companies have trialled products under Red conditions to make sure they can withstand their close-up. Smashbox Cosmetics’ Halo Effect HD Foundation (￡27.50), for example, was tested with Red in the company’s LA studios. Pigments are suspended in a gel, “so the pigment doesn’t cake together and natural skin comes through,” says Smashbox make-up artist Lori Taylor. Shiseido Sheer and Perfect Foundation (￡29) contains fine pearl particles that correct inconsistencies in skin tone. Then there’s a new powder version of Chanel Vitalumière (￡31), one of the first optical effect foundations, as well as Asta lift Light Analyzing Foundation, developed by Fujifilm with ingredients that adapt to changes in light.

尽管如此，麦加里说，这一切仍存在涓滴效应。化妆品公司正在试验能够迎合Red相机拍摄的产品，以确保产品经得起高清晰特写镜头的考验。比方说，Smashbox Cosmetics推出了晕轮效应高清粉底液（Halo Effect HD Foundation，售价28.5英镑），在公司的洛杉矶工作室用Red相机进行测试，各种色素悬浮于凝胶中，“这样一来色素不会沉积在一起，自然皮肤能够清晰表现出来”，Smashbox化妆师劳利·泰勒(Lori Taylor)说。资生堂(Shiseido)的Sheer and Perfect Foundation粉底（售价29英镑）含有上等珍珠粉，能够修复肤色的色调差异。香奈儿(Chanel)也推出了青春活力粉底系列Vitalumière（售价31英镑），这是目前首款光学效果粉底；此外富士公司研发的Astalift光感分析粉底(Light Analyzing Foundation)含有能适应光线变化的成分。

When it comes to lipstick, Red picks up dryness (an issue with matte finish lipsticks) and bleeding (often a hazard with bright lipstick), so make-up artist Jo Frost is a fan of YSL’s new lip glosses, Rouge Pure Couture Vernis à Lèvres (￡23.50). In the spirit of optical effect foundations, pearl pigments reflect light like a prism. They are blended with a polymer, oils and a lower level of pigment for a more transparent, radiant colour effect. “They are moisturising and they hold a lot longer,” says Frost.

说到唇膏，Red相机处理起嘴唇干涩（用哑光唇膏处理）与嘴唇艳红（用艳丽唇膏后会常有此危险）也是游刃有余，因此化妆师乔·弗罗斯特(Jo Frost)最爱用伊夫·圣·洛朗(YSL)推出的新款润唇膏——镜光持久唇釉液体唇膏（Rouge Pure Couture Vernis à Lèvres，售价23.5英镑）。与光学效果粉底一脉相承的是，其包含的珍珠颜料能象棱镜一样折射光，它们与高分子聚合物、油脂、以及低档颜料混合在一起，以打造更透澈、更绚丽的色彩效果。“这种唇膏保温效果更好，持续时间更长，”弗罗斯特说。

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