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一个小妙招,让你餐桌上的海味不断供

发布者: 五毒 | 发布时间: 2022-12-5 21:23| 查看数: 29| 评论数: 0|



Sustainability represents the what, the where and the how of what is caught. The who and the why are what's important to me. I want to know the people behind my dinner choices. I want to know how I impact them. I want to know how they impact me. I want to know why they fish. I want to know how they rely on the water's bounty for their living.

持续性象征着何事,何地以及什么东西是如何被捕捉的。对我来说,重要的是谁和为什么。我想知道在我们餐桌背后的那些人。我想知道我是如何影响他们的。想知道他们是如何影响我的。我想知道他们为什么捕鱼。我想知道他们是如何借助于水的慷慨赠与而生活的。

Understanding all of this enables us to shift our perception of seafood away from a commodity to an opportunity to restore our ecosystem. It allows for us to celebrate the seafood that we're also so fortunate to eat.So what do we call this? I think we call it restorative seafood. Where sustainability is the capacity to endure and maintain, restorative is the ability to replenish and progress.

理解了这些可以将我们对海味的认识从一种商品,提升至恢复我们生态系统的一个机会。这种观念允许我们赞美那些我们有幸可以吃到的海味。那么我们称这为什么呢?我认为我们可以称它为恢复的海味。可持续性是一种持续并且保持的能力,恢复是可以补给并促进的一种能力。

Restorative seafood allows for an evolving and dynamic system and acknowledges our relationship with the ocean as a resource, suggesting that we engage to replenish the ocean and to encourage its resiliency. It is a more hopeful, it is a more human, and is a more useful way of understanding our environment. Wallet guides -- standard issue by lots in the marine conservation world -- are very handy; they're a wonderful tool. Green, yellow and red lists (of) seafood species.

恢复海鲜将提供一个逐步发展且富有活力的系统并且承认我们与海洋作为一种资源的关系,建议我们应着手去补充海洋并且激发它的恢复力。它是一个更加富有希望,更人性化并且是一个更有效的理解我们环境的方式。消费手册——由海洋保护组织统一发行,它方便携带,是很不错的工具书。以绿色,黄色和红色来划分海鲜的种类。

The association is very easy: buy green, don't buy red, think twice about yellow. But in my mind, it's really not enough to just eat green list. We can't sustain this without the measure of our success really changing the fate of the species in the yellow and the red.But what if we eat only in the green list? You've got pole-caught yellowfin tuna here -- comes from sustainable stocks. Pole caught -- no bycatch. Great for fishermen. Lots of money. Supporting local economies. But it's a lion of the sea. It's a top predator.

很容易就能猜到:买绿色的,不买红色的,对黄色的要再三考虑。但是在我看来,限制再仅食用绿色类的海鲜是不足够的。在无法预测我们改变黄色和红色类物种的成功率的情况下,我们是不能够维护海洋的可持续性的。但是如果我们仅仅食用绿色类的呢?这些用钓竿捕捉的黄鳍金枪鱼也属于绿色类——来自于可持续存储。用钓竿捕捉——而非兼捕。对渔民来说好处很多。能带来很多的钱。扶植地方经济。但它(黄鳍金枪鱼)相当于海洋里的狮子。它是一种顶级捕食者。这顿饭的背景是什么?

What's the context of this meal? Am I sitting down in a steakhouse to a 16-ounce portion of this? Do I do this three times a week? I might still be in the green list, but I'm not doing myself, or you, or the oceans any favors.The point is that we have to have a context, a gauge for our actions in all this. Example: I've heard that red wine is great for my health -- antioxidants and minerals -- heart healthy. That's great! I love red wine! I'm going to drink so much of it. I'm going to be so healthy. Well, how many bottles is it before you tell me that I have a problem?

我现在正坐在一个牛排餐厅食用一个十六盎司分量的黄鳍金枪鱼。是否我每个星期都该这样食用三次呢?我应该限制在食用绿色类的海鲜,但是我自己,或者是你,并没有对这些海洋起到任何帮助。重点是我们需要一个背景,一个度量我们行为的标准。例如:我听说过红酒有助于健康——含有抗氧化剂和矿物质,对心脏健康有益。太好了!我爱红酒!我要喝很多很多的红酒。那样我就能变的非常的健康。那么,在我成为酒鬼之前究竟我应该喝多少瓶才有助于健康呢?

Well folks, we have a protein problem. We have lost this sensibility when it regards our food, and we are paying a cost. The problem is we are hiding that cost beneath the waves. We are hiding that cost behind the social acceptance of expanding waistlines. And we are hiding that cost behind monster profits. So the first thing about this idea of restorative seafood is that it really takes into account our needs. Restorative seafood might best be represented not by Jaws, or by Flipper, or the Gordon's fisherman, but rather, by the Jolly Green Giant.

朋友们,我们有一个蛋白质问题。当涉及到我们的食物时,我们便丢失了这种敏感度,我们于是付出代价。问题是我们在隐藏那些代价。我们将那些代价隐藏在社会对我们日益膨胀的胃口的默许。我们将那些代价隐藏在巨大的利润背后。因此关于恢复海味的第一件事情,就是认真地考虑我们的需要。恢复海味最具代表性的,并非由电影“大白鲨”,“海豚的故事”,又或者是戈东的渔人牌海鲜罐头,而更像是绿巨人。

Vegetables: they might yet save the oceans. Sylvia likes to say that blue is the new green Well I'd like to respectfully submit that broccoli green might then be the new blue. We must continue to eat the best seafood possible, if at all. But we also must eat it with a ton of vegetables. The best part about restorative seafood though is that it comes on the half-shell with a bottle of Tabasco and lemon wedges.

蔬菜:他们仍然可以挽救海洋。西尔维娅喜欢说蓝色是新的绿色。而我喜欢恭敬地认为西兰花绿色则是新的蓝色。我们必须持续地食用那些最佳的海产品。但是我们也必须同蔬菜一起食用它们。恢复海味最好之处在于尽管它被盛在一半的贝壳里和一瓶塔巴斯科辣酱和柠檬片一起端上餐桌。

It comes in a five-ounce portion of tilapia breaded with Dijon mustard and crispy, broiled breadcrumbs and a steaming pile of pecan quinoa pilaf with crunchy,grilled broccoli so soft and sweet and charred and smoky on the outside with just a hint of chili flake. Whooo!  This is an easy sell. And the best part is all of those ingredients are available to every family at the neighborhood Walmart.Jamie Oliver is campaigning to save America from the way we eat. Sylvia is campaigning to save the oceans from the way we eat. There's a pattern here.

一个五盎司份量的罗非鱼以第戎芥末浇汁,沾上香脆的,烘烤的面包屑和一盘蒸的核桃加藜麦肉饭,加上脆生生的烤西兰花,外表是如此之松软香甜,略带焦香味和一点的辣椒片儿。哇哦!这个一定是很抢手的商品。这个最大的优点就是所有的这些调料对于每个家庭来说都是很容易在家附近的沃尔玛找到的。杰米奥利弗正在发起一个从我们的饮食之道来拯救美国的运动。西尔维娅正在组织一个从我们的饮食之道来拯救海洋的运动。这里有一个规律。

Forget nuclear holocaust; it's the fork that we have to worry about. We have ravaged our Earth and then used the food that we've sourced to handicap ourselves in more ways than one. So I think we have this whole eating thing wrong. And so I think it's time we change what we expect from our food. Sustainability is complicated but dinner is a reality that we all very much understand. So let's start there. There's been a lot of movement recently in greening our food systems. Dan Barber and Alice Waters are leading passionately the green food Delicious Revolution.

先别管核武器大屠杀,你手上吃饭用的刀叉其实是我们应该担心的。我们毁灭了我们的地球,然后将我们赖以为生的食物在各个方面阻碍我们自己。因此我认为我们的饮食之道是大错特错。因此我认为现在正是我们改变对食物的期待的时刻。持续性是复杂的,但是晚餐却是很容易理解的一个现实。所以,让我们从晚餐开始。最近有很多关于绿化我们的食物系统的运动。丹巴伯和爱丽丝沃特斯热烈地倡导绿色食品“美味革命”运动。

But green foods often represent a way for us to disregard the responsibility as eaters. Just because it comes from a green source doesn't mean we can treat it with disregard on the plate. We have eco-friendly shrimp. We can make them; we have that technology.

But we can never have any eco-friendly all-you-can-eat shrimp buffet. It doesn't work. Heart-healthy dinner is a very important part of restorative seafood. While we try to manage declining marine populations, the media's recommending increased consumption of seafood.

但是绿色食品常常代表着,我们忽略了食用者的责任。仅仅是因为这来自于一种绿色的源头并不意味着我们可以忽视盛在盘子里的食物。我们有环保的虾。我们可以制作出来环保虾,我们有这种技术。但我们永远不会有任何环保的自助虾自助餐。它不起作用。有利心脏健康的晚餐是恢复海味十分重要的一部分。当我们试图管理减少的海洋生物,媒体的推荐使得海味消费增加。

Studies say that tens of thousands of American grandmothers, grandfathers, mothers and fathers might be around for another birthday if we included more seafood. That's a reward I am not willing to pass up. But it's not all about the seafood. It's about the way that we look at our plates. As a chef, I realize the easiest thing for me to do is reduce the portion sizes on my plate. A couple things happened. I made more money.

研究证明上万名美国奶奶,爷爷,妈妈和爸爸可以活得更久些,如果我们食用更多的海味。这是个我不愿意去放弃的奖励。但是这并仅仅是海味。这是如何看待地球的方式。作为一名厨师,我意识到我能做的最简单的事情就是减少盘子里的分量。一系列的事情接而发生了。我赚了更多的钱。

People started buying appetizers and salads, because they knew they weren't going to fill up on the entrees alone. People spent more time engaging in their meals, engaging with each other over their meals. People got, in short, more of what they came there for even though they got less protein. They got more calories over the course of a diversified meal. They got healthier. I made more money. This is great. Environmental consideration was served with every plate, but it was served with a heaping mound of consideration for human interests at the same time.

人们开始购买开胃品和沙拉,因为他们知道只食用主菜是不能填饱肚子的。人们消费更多的时间在晚餐上,花更多的时间在进餐者上。简而言之,人们得到更多地它们为之而来的东西,尽管他们得到较少的分量。他们得到比起多种多样的晚餐更多的能量。他们变得更健康了。而我赚了更多的钱。这是很棒的事情。对环境的关心供应到每一个盘子上,但是它同时也提供一个巨大的对人类利益的关心。

One of the other things we did was begin to diversify the species that we served -- small silverfish, anchovies, mackerel, sardines were uncommon. Shellfish, mussels, oysters, clams, tilapia, char -- these were the common species. We were directing tastes towards more resilience, more restorative options. This is what we need to favor. This is what the green list says. But this is also how we can actually begin to restore our environment.

我们做的另一件事情就是将我们所提供的品种多样化——小银鱼、凤尾鱼、鳕鱼和沙丁鱼是比较不常见的。贝类,蚌类,牡蛎,蛤蜊,罗非鱼,嘉鱼——这些都是常见的品种。我们引导人们的品位向着更加富有弹性,更加易于恢复的选择。这才是我们应该赞同的。这才是那些绿色类品种告诉我们的。但是这也正是实际上我们应该如何修复我们的环境。

But what of those big predators, those fashionable species, that green list tuna that I was talking about earlier? Well, if you must, I have a recipe for you. It pretty much works with any big fish in the ocean, so here we go. Start with a 16-ounce portion of big fish. Get a knife. Cut it into four portions. Put it on four plates. Mound up those four plates with vegetables and then open up the very best bottle of Burgundy you have, light the candles and celebrate it. Celebrate the opportunity you have to eat this.

但这与我之前谈到的那些大型掠食者,那些流行的品种,那些绿色类金枪鱼又有什么关系呢?如果你必须要的话,那么我有一个食谱给你。这作用于海洋中的任何一种大型鱼类,那么让我来看一看。从一个十六盎司分量的大鱼开始。拿把刀。把它切成四等份。放在四个盘子上。在那四个盘子上堆放上蔬菜然后开启一瓶勃艮第葡萄酒,点亮蜡烛然后开始庆祝。庆祝你能有幸吃到这样的美味。

Invite your friends and neighbors over and repeat once a year, maybe. I expect a lot from food. I expect health and joy and family and community. I expect that producing ingredients, preparing dishes and eating meals is all part of the communion of human interests. I was lucky enough that my father was a fantastic cook. And he taught me very early on about the privilege that eating represents. I remember well the meals of my childhood. They were reasonable portions of protein served with copious quantities of vegetables and small amounts of starch, usually rice.

可以的话,邀请你的朋友和邻居一年来这样庆祝一次。我对食物有很高的期望。我期待健康愉快以及家庭和社区。我期待着生产(烹调的)原料,准备菜肴和享受美味都是这圣餐的一部分。我很幸运因为我的父亲是个很棒的厨师。在我很小的时候他就教会我享受美食所带来的特权。我清晰地记得童年时的每一餐。它们有由大量的蔬菜所提供的合理定量的蛋白质和少量的淀粉,通常是大米。

This is still how I largely eat today. I get sick when I go to steakhouses. I get the meat sweats. It's like a hangover from protein. It's disgusting. But of all the dire news that you'll hear and that you have heard about the state of our oceans, I have the unfortunate burden of delivering to you possibly the very worst of it and that is this whole time your mother was right. Eat your vegetables. It's pretty straightforward. So what are we looking for in a meal? Well for health, I'm looking for wholesome ingredients that are good for my body.

直到今天我基本上还是这样的饮食。我去牛排店会觉得很不舒服。吃肉会令我出汗。这就像是犯恶心的感觉。很难受。但是所有这些你将听到的可怕消息以及你已经听到的关于我们的海洋,很不幸地我有这个责任来传达给你,可能是比那更糟地,这一次,你妈妈是正确的。多吃点蔬菜。这很直截了当。那么我们究竟向每一餐索取什么呢?为了健康,我寻找有益健康的原料,对我的身体有益的。

For joy, I'm looking for butter and salt and sexy things that make things taste less like penance. For family, I'm looking for recipes that genuflect to my own personal histories. For community though, we start at the very beginning. There's no escaping the fact that everything we eat has a global impact. So try and learn as best you can what that impact is and then take the first step to minimize it. We've seen an image of our blue planet, our world bank. But it is more than just a repository of our resources; it's also the global geography of the communion we call dinner.

为了愉悦,我寻求黄油和盐和任何能够让品尝食物不那么像自我惩罚的原料。为了家庭,我寻找能够服从于我个人阅历的食谱。考虑到社区,我从零开始。没有例外地,我们所食用的所有东西都会影响全球。因此,尽你所能地了解这一影响是什么,然后迈出第一步,将这种影响降至最低。我们已经看到了一副蓝色星球(地球)的图片,我们的世界银行。但是它不仅仅是一个保存我们资源的仓库;它也是被我们叫做盛宴的世界地理。

So if we all take only what we need, then we can begin to share the rest, we can begin to celebrate, we can begin to restore. We need to savor vegetables. We need to savor smaller portions of seafood. And we need to save dinner. Thank you.

因此如果我们只谈些我们需要的,我们于是共享剩余的,我们可以开始庆祝,我们可以开始恢复。我们需要品尝蔬菜。我们需要品尝小份量的海味。我们还需要节约晚餐。谢谢。


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